Fabric defect · Woven fabric - Temple marks in woven fabric
Temples hold woven cloth out to its full width near the edges while it is woven. A temple that grips badly can leave small holes, cut picks, pressure marks or faint streaks a few inches in from the edge, sometimes down the whole piece.
What ConductVision Textile records
ConductVision Textile is designed to flag each defect with its place on the roll, its size, its points and a still image. Your inspector names the defect and confirms or dismisses it.
On the defect map in the roll report, temple marks are a line of spots or a streak along the roll, close to one edge.
What temple marks are
A U.S. federal glossary of fabric imperfections defines temple marks as "small holes, impressions, or marks adjacent to the edge of the cloth" 1. Goldberg's 1950 casebook explains the part behind them: temples "hold the cloth to its proper width," gripping it in front of the reed "for a distance of about 4 in. on either edge" 2.
In 1950, Goldberg noted that rolls covered with rubber or composition had replaced most pin rollers, to hold the cloth without piercing or cutting it, but that "even this type may be a source of damage to the gray goods before it leaves the loom" 2. Not every temple mark is a hole. In one case a narrow dark streak came from yarns bruised "on one face of the cloth only," and Goldberg adds that "very often too great pressure of the temple roll will leave a mark without actually damaging the yarns" 2.
Holes from temple pins are small 2. A 2012 U.S. military cloth specification adds an inspection with light shone through the cloth, to find pinholes 3.
What causes temple marks
| Stage | What happens | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Weaving | Coarse or dull pins on a wooden temple roll leave small holes near one selvedge, reaching in about 4 inches from the edge 2. | Temple pins |
| Weaving | Single picks cut near the edge, probably by a faulty temple roll, leave warp ends floating in a line 2. | Temple rolls for damage |
| Weaving | A rough temple roll, or too much pressure from the roll, chafes and bruises the yarns on one face, and the bruised yarns dye darker as a narrow streak 2. | Temple roll surface and pressure |
| Weaving | Temple rolls that grip too tightly can shift the warp yarns slightly or chafe them, which leaves a faint warp streak 2. | How tightly the temples grip |
| Weaving | Eccentric temple rolls can distort some constructions, and the distortion is hard to correct in finishing 2. | Temple rolls that run true |
| Weaving | A helical spiral rubber covering can press a lasting pattern of short, diagonal streaks into some fabrics 2. | The temple roll covering |
Where temple marks show on a roll
Temple marks sit near the edges, "adjacent to the edge of the cloth" 1, within the band the temples grip, about 4 inches on either side 2. Goldberg's cases put pin holes within about 4 inches of one selvage, cut-pick floats about 3 inches in, and a bruised streak about 3½ inches in 2. A mark from a temple roll can repeat down the whole piece in a straight line 2.
Two other marks sit in the same place. The federal glossary lists tentering marks, clip marks and pin marks among finishing imperfections: "enlarged pinholes, tears, or shift marks along the edge of the cloth" 1. And in one of Goldberg's cases, dark streaks about 4 inches wide beside each selvage were first blamed on the temple rolls but came from oil left by pads the weaving mill had set against the warp near the selvages 2.
How temple marks count
A streak or pressure mark is scored by its length: 1 point up to 3 inches, 2 points over 3 up to 6 inches, 3 points over 6 up to 9 inches and 4 points over 9 inches 4. Pin holes fall under the rule for holes and openings: in the 4-point table one trade guide sets out, a hole of 1 inch or less scores 2 points 4. A mark that repeats along the roll can put points in yard after yard. Under the 4-point system, no linear yard or metre gets more than 4 points, however many defects it holds 5.
For military contract cloth, a 2012 U.S. specification scores any hole, cut or pinhole at 4 points for each yard in which it occurs 3.
Sources
- 1U.S. General Services Administration, Federal Standard No. 4b, Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (1964)
- 2J. B. Goldberg, Fabric Defects: Case Histories of Imperfections in Woven Cotton and Rayon Fabrics, McGraw-Hill (1950)
- 3U.S. Department of Defense, MIL-DTL-44436B, Cloth, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend (2012)
- 4P. Joshi and A. Trivedi, Fabric Inspection System and Machines, Fibre2Fashion
- 5Cotton Incorporated, Visual Inspection and Grading of Fabrics
Pilot - How a pilot starts
We start with recorded video of your inspection frame and agree with your team on one fabric to test. The pilot runs for a set time, and before it starts we agree on what counts as success. For each defect it marks, ConductVision saves a still image and its place on the roll on your network for your inspector to check.
- You bring
- Recorded video of fabric running over your inspection frame
- We set up
- One fabric, and the limit you grade it against
- You get
- Marked defects, running points and a final points forecast for each roll, and a results report checked against what we agreed
One question to start with
Which fabric shows temple marks most often?
Related pages
- Selvedge defectsAn edge of the fabric woven too tight or too loose, or left loopy, curled or broken.
- HolesAn opening where yarns have broken or been cut.
- FloatsA warp or filling yarn left unbound over yarns it should interlace with.
- Defect positionWhat a defect's place on the roll points to
- Fabric defect libraryWoven, knit and yarn defects, and how they are measured