Fabric defect · Knit fabric - Needle lines in knit fabric: causes and how they count
A needle line is a lengthwise line in knit fabric that follows one wale. It starts at the knitting machine, at a needle that is bent, worn, tight in its groove or set in the wrong place.

What ConductVision Textile records
ConductVision Textile is designed to flag each defect with its place on the roll, its size, its points and a still image. Your inspector names the defect and confirms or dismisses it.
On the defect map in the roll report, a needle line is a line along the roll.
What a needle line is
A U.S. military glossary of knitting imperfections defines a needle line as "a vertical line in fabric following one wale line" 1. Its entry for vertical lines, "lengthwise marks occurring in knitted fabric," adds that they are "sometimes called doglines or needle lines" 1. Cotton Incorporated's defect glossary gives the cause of its example: "The result of a bent needle" 2.
The line can be a gap as well as a mark. A university module on knit defects describes vertical stripes as "longitudinal gaps in the fabric," where "the space between adjacent wales is irregular" 3. The same module calls oily soil stripes along the wales needle stripes 3. Those are stains, not faults in the stitches, and the oil stains page covers them.
What causes needle lines
The causes below are at the knitting machine: its needles and sinkers.
| Stage | What happens | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Knitting | A bent needle 2, or bent latches, needle hooks or needle stems 4. | Needle latches, hooks and stems |
| Knitting | Needles that run tight in their grooves 4. | Fiber built up in the needle grooves, called tricks, and bent needles running tight |
| Knitting | Wrong needle selection, where needles go into the cylinder or dial out of sequence 4. | The needle sequence in the cylinder and dial grooves |
| Knitting | Needles that are damaged, drag in their grooves or have stiff latches, or that come from different suppliers or are built differently 3. | Needle condition, and one needle supply per machine |
| Knitting | Worn needles, which "generally produce length direction streaks" 5. | Needle wear |
| Knitting | Bent or worn sinkers, the narrow blades between the needles, leave fine vertical lines called sinker lines 4, 6. | Sinkers, and fiber in the sinker grooves |
Where needle lines show on a roll
How needle lines count
A needle line that runs on along the roll is a running defect. One buyer manual, which follows the 4-point system of ASTM D5430, gives up to 4 points to each linear yard or metre in which a continuous running defect exceeds 9 inches, and no linear yard gets more than 4 points 7. A needle line through a whole roll can cost 4 points in every yard. A short line is scored by its length: 1 point up to 3 inches, 2 points over 3 up to 6 inches, 3 points over 6 up to 9 inches and 4 points over 9 inches 8.
Sources
- 1U.S. Department of Defense, MIL-STD-1491, Glossary of Knitting Imperfections (1971)
- 2Cotton Incorporated, Standard Fabric Defect Glossary
- 3S. Natarajan, Knitted fabric defects, chapter 17 of Textile Manufacturing and Testing, e-PG Pathshala, INFLIBNET
- 4M. A. Taher, M. M. Rahman, M. A. Jahangir, M. S. Mia and Ashaduzzaman, Study on different types of knitting faults, causes and remedies of knit fabrics, International Journal of Textile Science 5(6), 119-131 (2016)
- 5Cotton Incorporated, Barré, Technical Bulletin TRI 1002 (1992)
- 6Cotton Incorporated, Textile Glossary
- 7DXLG Fabric Inspection Guidelines, version 1.1
- 8P. Joshi and A. Trivedi, Fabric Inspection System and Machines, Fibre2Fashion
Pilot - How a pilot starts
We start with recorded video of your inspection frame and agree with your team on one fabric to test. The pilot runs for a set time, and before it starts we agree on what counts as success. For each defect it marks, ConductVision saves a still image and its place on the roll on your network for your inspector to check.
- You bring
- Recorded video of fabric running over your inspection frame
- We set up
- One fabric, and the limit you grade it against
- You get
- Marked defects, running points and a final points forecast for each roll, and a results report checked against what we agreed
One question to start with
Which knit fabric shows needle lines most often?
Related pages
- Dropped stitchesA stitch left unknit, where a needle failed to form its loop.
- Runs and laddersStitches that unravel down a wale.
- Oil stains and grease spotsMachine oil or grease on the fabric, or worked into its yarn.
- Defect positionWhat a defect's place on the roll points to
- Defect sizeHow a defect's length sets its points
- Fabric defect libraryWoven, knit and yarn defects, and how they are measured