Fabric defect · Knit fabric - Needle lines in knit fabric: causes and how they count

A needle line is a lengthwise line in knit fabric that follows one wale. It starts at the knitting machine, at a needle that is bent, worn, tight in its groove or set in the wrong place.

Black and white close-up of knit fabric with one thin dark line running straight down a column of stitches.
A vertical line down one wale of a knit fabric, the way a needle line shows.

What ConductVision Textile records

ConductVision Textile is designed to flag each defect with its place on the roll, its size, its points and a still image. Your inspector names the defect and confirms or dismisses it.

On the defect map in the roll report, a needle line is a line along the roll.

What a needle line is

A U.S. military glossary of knitting imperfections defines a needle line as "a vertical line in fabric following one wale line" 1. Its entry for vertical lines, "lengthwise marks occurring in knitted fabric," adds that they are "sometimes called doglines or needle lines" 1. Cotton Incorporated's defect glossary gives the cause of its example: "The result of a bent needle" 2.

The line can be a gap as well as a mark. A university module on knit defects describes vertical stripes as "longitudinal gaps in the fabric," where "the space between adjacent wales is irregular" 3. The same module calls oily soil stripes along the wales needle stripes 3. Those are stains, not faults in the stitches, and the oil stains page covers them.

What causes needle lines

The causes below are at the knitting machine: its needles and sinkers.

What causes needle lines
StageWhat happensWhat to check
KnittingA bent needle 2, or bent latches, needle hooks or needle stems 4.Needle latches, hooks and stems
KnittingNeedles that run tight in their grooves 4.Fiber built up in the needle grooves, called tricks, and bent needles running tight
KnittingWrong needle selection, where needles go into the cylinder or dial out of sequence 4.The needle sequence in the cylinder and dial grooves
KnittingNeedles that are damaged, drag in their grooves or have stiff latches, or that come from different suppliers or are built differently 3.Needle condition, and one needle supply per machine
KnittingWorn needles, which "generally produce length direction streaks" 5.Needle wear
KnittingBent or worn sinkers, the narrow blades between the needles, leave fine vertical lines called sinker lines 4, 6.Sinkers, and fiber in the sinker grooves

Where needle lines show on a roll

A needle line runs along the roll in one wale, the column of loops that one needle knits 1, 6. Cotton Incorporated lists its needle line example as a warp line, or vertical line 2.

Check greige fabric on the knitting machine for needle lines, the first remedy one paper on knitting faults gives 4.

How needle lines count

A needle line that runs on along the roll is a running defect. One buyer manual, which follows the 4-point system of ASTM D5430, gives up to 4 points to each linear yard or metre in which a continuous running defect exceeds 9 inches, and no linear yard gets more than 4 points 7. A needle line through a whole roll can cost 4 points in every yard. A short line is scored by its length: 1 point up to 3 inches, 2 points over 3 up to 6 inches, 3 points over 6 up to 9 inches and 4 points over 9 inches 8.

Pilot - How a pilot starts

We start with recorded video of your inspection frame and agree with your team on one fabric to test. The pilot runs for a set time, and before it starts we agree on what counts as success. For each defect it marks, ConductVision saves a still image and its place on the roll on your network for your inspector to check.

You bring
Recorded video of fabric running over your inspection frame
We set up
One fabric, and the limit you grade it against
You get
Marked defects, running points and a final points forecast for each roll, and a results report checked against what we agreed

One question to start with

Which knit fabric shows needle lines most often?